Cape Coast’s imposing, whitewashed castle commands the heart of town, overlooking the sea. First converted into a castle by the Dutch in 1637 and expanded by the Swedes in 1652, the castle changed hands five times over the 13 tumultuous years that followed until, in 1664, it was captured by the British. During the two centuries of British occupation, it was the headquarters for the colonial administration until Accra was declared the new capital in 1877.
Now extensively restored, Cape Coast Castle deserves as much time as you can give it. Mountains of rusty cannonballs line the route walked by slaves, and castle staff conduct excellent tours of the grounds every hour or so (less frequently on Sunday). You’ll be shown into the dark, damp dungeons, where slaves sat waiting for two to 12 weeks, all the while contemplating rumours that only hinted at their fate.
A visit to the condemned slave cell (not for the claustrophobic) contrasts sharply with the incredible Governor’s bedroom, blessed with floor-to-ceiling windows and panoramic views of the ocean. There’s also an excellent museum on the first floor, detailing the history of Ghana, the slave trade and Akan culture.
The castle buildings, constructed around a trapezoidal courtyard facing the sea, and the dungeons below, provide a horrifying insight into the workings of the slave trade. Tours, which last about an hour, end with a passage through the Door of No Return.
