The ancient Stari Grad overlooking Mala Plaža is still largely residential and somewhat dilapidated – a legacy of the 1979 earthquake. This is part of its charm – this Old Town really does feel old, a fact reinforced by its uneven cobblestones and the paucity of street lighting at night. One suspects that vampires lurk in forgotten basements...
A steep slope leads to the Upper Gate , where just inside the walls there’s a small museum containing Roman and Ottoman artefacts. On the site is a 1510 church that was converted to a mosque in 1693; you can still see the ruined minaret. Just outside the museum is a fountain (actually, it’s now more of a tap) with an Arabic inscription, a crescent moon and flowers carved into the stone.
