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Ganges River, India – May 1999

TIME : 2016/2/27 14:52:38


Standing there on the bank of Ganges you can hear the ‘gentle’ roar ahead till you go a little further and it transforms into a thunderous one.


You can see the water foam, swirl, make whirlpools and rise to form sheer walls. The waves crash into each other in their pristine fury as if they are trying to drown each other.


But you can never even come close to imagining the power of the river. Yup, for a starter, imagine being a pair of Levi’s in a washing machine set at
top speed!


White water rafting on the Ganges was ‘pioneered’ by a few adventurous Canadians way back in the early eighties. (A few of the rapids are named after them!)


It’s a fully fledged industry now. Around seventeen camps were operational on the entire stretch from Rudraprayag to Rishikesh this season, though most of them are concentrated up to a place called Kaudiyala, 40 kms from Rishikesh.


I and a few friends did about 36 kms of rafting in two days. We started from Kaudiyala. The excitement built up as we climbed aboard in calm water. We were taught to respond to ‘all forward’, ‘right back’, ‘lean forward’, not to panic if we fall over or capsize and the rest of the ‘boring’ safety routines.


Floating into the froth you can truly appreciate your senses tuned to the slightest sound from your guide, the slightest movement of the raft, and the numbness of bone chilling water sprayed on your skin.


The best seat on the raft? Undoubtedly the guys who lean forward and meet the water head on!


Then we let the Ganges take over. The first rough patch at Kaudiyala is called the ‘Daniel’s Dip’. You can almost feel the raft get pulled towards the rapid.


I can tell you, the river wants you more than you want it. What an introduction! Grade III plus rapid.


Then came ‘The Wall’. Grade IV plus. Sheer terror for 20 seconds. We almost turned turtle. Very ‘technical’ rapid, according to our guide, and we were in no position to argue!


Then it’s the turn of some milder grade I or II rapids, a few names that I can recall were, ‘Crossfire’, ‘Black Money’, ‘Return to Sender’ (or centre ?), ‘Golf Course’ and a cracker of a rapid where you can body surf.


Then came the ‘Roller Coaster’, cousin of ‘The Wall’ with the same terrorising tendencies. Grade IV plus and very very mean.


We climbed a wave crest and were held there for a trifle longer than required, enough to make everyone scream out of sheer adrenalin-laced thrill. Once past this monster, it is an easy going till Rishikesh, with a couple more rapids where you can body surf too.


The rafting season on the Ganges is from November to mid April. In summers the water level rises and the rapids become dangerous for rafting for mere mortals like me and all but few camps pack up. Though that should not deter the pros who dig for raging rivers!


I would suggest staying in a camp on the bank of the river. There are plenty to choose from. Most of the operators will provide you with pickup from Delhi and back, food, bedding and equipment while you stay on their camp.


It is also possible to sign up with them for the rafting trip only. Of course, you will have to arrange for your stay and food separately. Expect to pay anywhere in the range of US$ 30-80 per night depending on the facilities and extra frills that each campsite provides. A stand alone run of 12 kms on the river should cost around US$ 10-15 per person.


Most of the good camp operators have websites, so do a little bit of dry surfing on the net before the real wet thing!


A Few Tips:

My BootsMy BootsCarry some Sun block if you are light skinned.


Don’t carry wallets/ valuables on you while on the water. If you have to wear glasses, secure them by tying with an elastic band around your neck.

Go out and have fun. Even if you don’t know how to swim, body surfing in the rapids is a must. Relax, the lifejacket won’t let you drown!


For the Geographically Weak:

Rishikesh is 250 kms, and 6 hours away, by road from Delhi in the foothills of the Himalayas.

Kaudiyala is another 40 kms from Rishkesh. You can chill out in the ‘Ashrams’ in Rishikesh for that elusive spiritual awakening. It is one of the holiest Hindu religious places along with Haridwar, Varanasi etc.