Burma is Back

Myanmar was #2 on our list of Top Indie Travel Destinations for 2013!

As President Obama demonstrated by making it his first foreign trip following re-election, Burma is back on the map. With recent democratic elections, censorship relaxed, political prisoners being released, and sanctions being lifted, I decided to check out the country of Myanmar, for so long off-limits to ethically-minded travelers. Crucial to my decision was that Aung San Suu Kyi’s National League for Democracy (NLD) has lifted its fifteen-year travel boycott and now welcomes independent travelers. Burma is open for business.

Nevertheless, many of those visitors who do choose to make the trip are acutely aware that their spending could fall into the hands of the generals or their cronies. The government fees that tour operators must pay is one of the reasons that tour groups are not yet welcomed by the NLD. Due to government links and the fees necessary to operate, many people choose to avoid internal flights. As a result, independent travelers are generally careful to target their spending and limit the amount going directly to the government as much as possible.

Burma or Myanmar?

Lake Inle is a stunning place to be. Among the communities on the lake, it is still possible to visit ancient temples which do look their age and retain their atmosphere and mystique. But even here we saw some of these starting to be rebuilt with fresh concrete. Hiring a motor canoe in town to visit the surrounding communities is easy, as everyone has a boat and is keen to take you out. The lake fishermen are famous for their unique leg-rowing technique, allowing them the vantage point to spot fish while they row and to plunge their wicker-basket nets in to snare them.

While many of these villages are heavily-geared to the tourist trade, they also afford the opportunity to meet Shan and Pa-Oh people who come to the markets to trade. Lake tours invariably involve trips to various factories and “shopping opportunities,” but in contrast to other countries, there is no pressure to buy. For once being afforded the time to actually watch the manufacturing processes of lacquerware, gold leaf, silk, carvings, paper umbrellas, and boatbuilders without being hurried through to the inevitable shop, it was a very interesting experience, and a relief not to have to fend off the heavy sales techniques prevalent elsewhere in Asia.

The food at Inle is incredible. I enjoyed freshly-caught lake fish every day, be it grilled, stuffed, curried, or smoked. There is also a local Myanmar vineyard that is a popular cycle ride away, as well as hot springs and picturesque teakwood-temples to keep you interested away from the lake. Inle is the perfect place to relax before braving the overnight bus back to Yangon.

Burma is a fascinating country. Its turnaround has been startlingly fast: expect to see Aung San Suu Kyi’s face adorning everything from carrier bags to t-shirts. As more and more travelers tag it onto their Southeast Asian trips, expect visitor numbers to go through the roof. But If you do decide to visit, be aware of the implications of your trip, and try to be careful where you spend your money. Having been closeted from the outside world for so long, people seem genuinely happy to see a foreigner and are pleased for the opportunity for their views to be heard. In terms of politics and freedoms, Myanmar still has a long way to go, but if it’s on your list, now is the time.

Check out the following articles and resources for planning your trip to Burma:

• Read our Myanmar Indie Travel Guide
• Read Indie Travel in Myanmar for $45 Per Day
• Find a flight to Yangon
• Read 8 Reasons to Fall in Love with Burma
• Read Why Today Should be the Day You Head to Burma

Alex has globe-trotted through over seventy countries in the last decade in search of exciting and interesting challenges. En route, he has caught a train from Bristol to China, sailed 2,500 miles of the Amazon, and been crowned World Tuktuk Racing Champion in India. Alex is a firm believer that even if you are constrained by the commitments of real life, it doesn’t mean you can’t still have an adventure. After all, he’s an accountant.