As night falls (beginning around 7pm), two sets of ‘hyena men’ set themselves up just outside the city walls: one at the shrine of Sheikh Aw Anser along the eastern wall and the other north of Fallana Gate by the Christian slaughterhouse.
The first sight of Africa’s second-largest predator is usually of vague shadows and luminous green eyes as they skulk in and out of the shadows. As the pack grows more confident, they dart forward with their peculiar gait until all reservations are lost and they approach the hyena men to be fed, literally climbing on top of them to make a show of it. Watching costs Birr50 and if you’re game you can feed them yourself, holding the meat stick in your hands or mouth. Most people go with a guide, but it’s not required. Taxis (Birr100 round trip) cost more than bajaj (Birr50) but it’s worth it because they have brighter headlights.
