Comprising 1800 sq km of rough, inhospitable terrain and a couple of navigable roads, this reserve has been undergoing a renaissance of late. The park had been through hard times; abandoned to poachers because of a lack of funding, and plentiful human settlements encroaching along its borders. But thanks to increased funding (in 2012 the park received an US$850,000 cash injection from the World Bank), successful wildlife conservation programs and increased road networks, the reserve is coming back into its own.
There are also plans afoot to ring-fence at least a third of its core area to improve the survival of wildlife.
The Bua River flows green and scaly with a very healthy population of crocs, and come evening at the lodges there's a very good chance you'll see elephants crossing the river, your cockles warmed by a fire, your liver glowing with a decent Bloody Mary in hand. There are also roan and sable antelopes here, buffaloes, baboons, waterbucks, leopards and even itinerant lions – it’s just that wildlife can be difficult to spot because of the dense vegetation. Several large rivers cross the reserve, so the birdlife is also varied; there are more than 200 species including palm-nut vultures, kingfishers and ground hornbills. The Bua River is also excellent for salmon fishing.
The best way to really experience the nature is walking with a guide, or kayaking down the Bua River, your heart in your mouth as crocs upstream slip soundlessly into the murk to come and take a closer look.
