Four kilometres after Tnine a discreet sign points up a dirt path into the Berber village of Tafza: here, the three-storey mudbrick ksar that once housed the local caid (chief) is now a museum. Enthusiastic guided visits cover every detail of household life, from symbols carved in door frames to silver dowry jewellery. Call ahead to reserve meals on the terrace (Dh60) or arrange to visit Tafza pottery workshops.
