Five hours' walk from Anmu is amply rewarded by the sight of this14th-century monastery, hanging on a cliff face beneath a gaping cave entrance. The first glimpse is from the monastery guesthouse set amid wild rosebushes and stupas. Inside the gompa are some 700-year-old mural fragments in the Alchi style, but the views are the greatest appeal, along with the splendid yet relatively easy trek to get there.
The monastery guesthouse (₹200 per person) has four double rooms with real beds and even ensuite (if malfunctioning) bathrooms.
Trekking frrom Anmu (where the road currently ends), follow the obvious, gently undulating trail to Cha (2½ hours). Then head through the cente of that relatively large village and follow the arc of walls around the back of the extensive green area to find the path to Phuktal, which gently climbs a low pass then descends steadily to the side river. Don't cross the bridge.
Unless you want to return, take the alternative route via Purney (two-plus-one house village with two shops and campsites). That avoids the long climb back to Cha but the path has so many ups and downs that it's no great saving overall. One positive of the alternative route is passing through Gyalbok (Kalbok) - a one-house homestay village with flower-filled meadow-terrace and the crossing back to Anmu on a precarious suspension footbridge.
Rather than returning to Padum, many trekking groups continue towards Darcha on the Manali road (around four days). You’ll need proper gear and a guide to cross the 5090m Shingo La but from Ramjak a bus reportedly now runs to Keylong.
