Marked by a distinctive red-brick clocktower , this enormous warren of market halls dates originally from 1874 but was substantially rebuilt after a 1980s fire.
By day, handicraft touts can be a minor annoyance. It's more interesting just after dawn when there's a harrowing fascination in watching the arrival of animals at the Hogg Meat Market, with its grizzly chopping blocks, gruesomely blood-splattered floors and grimily pillared high ceilings. Another curiosity to seek out is Nahoum Bakery , little changed since 1902 when the Jewish owners arrived from Bagdhad. The little teak cash-desk is 80 years old.
