West of the river, Kauman, the oldest part of city, has narrow streets and is reminiscent of a kasbah , with traders selling religious souvenirs, dates, prayer beads and caps. On Fridays, men dressed in white robes and women in jilbab of all hues make their way on foot to prayer. It's a serene, ethereal scene. They are headed to Mesjid Al-Manar (also known as Al-Aqsa and Menera).
The mosque was built in 1549 by Sunan Kudus and is famous for its red-brick menara (minaret). This minaret may have originally been the watchtower of the Hindu temple the mosque is said to be built on – its curiously squat form and flared sides certainly have more in common with Balinese temples than with traditional Islamic architecture. Inside the main temple, Muslim worshippers pray before a Hindu-style brick gateway, a fascinating juxtaposition of Javanese religious heritage.
From the courtyards behind the mosque, a palm-lined path leads to the imposing Tomb of Sunan Kudus, shrouded with a curtain of lace. The narrow doorway, draped with heavy gold-embroidered curtains, leads to an inner chamber and the grave.
