Surabaya’s Arab Quarter – usually called Ampel or Kampung Arab – has the atmosphere and appearance of a North African medina. It is a warren of narrow lanes, marked by arched gateways crowned with Arabic script, and crowded with stalls selling prayer beads, peci (black Muslim felt hats) and other religious paraphernalia, alongside perfumes, dates and a plastic camel or two. Nasi goreng kembing (goat fried rice), is the top seller at local warungs, and all alleys lead to the Mesjid Ampel .
The most sacred mosque in Surabaya, it was here that Sunan Ampel (one of the wali songo who brought Islam to Java) was buried in 1481. The mosque itself is a huge space, the vast expanse of its marble floor divided by dozens of wood-wrapped concrete columns, but there’s very little in the way of ornamentation. Behind the mosque pilgrims chant and present rose-petal offerings at Sunan Ampel’s grave.
You have to access the mosque on foot. The most direct route is to take the lane that leads west from Jl Ampel Suci. A crowd of becak marks the entrance.
