Facing the eastern knoll of the Khaakha fortress, the most interesting element of visiting this fairly minimal museum is dressing up in a Pamiri chakman (judo-style woolen robe) and hat, or listening to director Odinmammad Mirzayev play one of the musical instruments. He can also demonstrate the traditional flint fire-stone and show you his extensive family tree. Next door is an interesting Ismaili mazar (tomb), one of many places in Central Asia that claims, quite unconvincingly, to be the final resting place of Ali, the Prophet’s son-in-law.
