Thao Suranari, wife of the city's assistant governor during Rama III's reign, is something of a wonder woman in these parts. Ya Mo (Grandma Mo), as she's affectionately called, became a hero in 1826 by organising a successful prisoner revolt after Chao Anou of Vientiane had conquered Khorat during his rebellion against Siam. One version of the legend says she convinced the women to seduce the Lao soldiers and then the Thai men launched a surprise attack, saving the city.
Her monument sits photogenically in front of Chumphon Gate , the only original gate left standing – the other three are recent rebuilds. It was a part of the city walls erected in 1656 by French technicians on the orders of Ayuthaya King Narai. The little white building north of this gate that resembles the old fortifications is Suranari Hall , a museum of sorts with a cool diorama and even-cooler sculpted mural creatively depicting the famous battle.
