Mary's highlight is this excellent museum housed in a sparkling white-marble palace across the river from the centre of town. The enormous premises is home to a collection of taxidermy, temporary exhibits and a gallery of Turkmen art, but the real reason to visit is the superb archaeological collection on the upper floor, full of discoveries from Margush (Gonur) and Merv, as well as impressively detailed models of both sites. Other highlights include a late third millennium BC tabernacle from Gonur, and lots of impressively preserved porcelain, coins, weapons, jewellery and amphorae. There’s also an extensive ethnography section, including a large collection of Turkmen jewellery, carpets, stuffed animals, a fully decorated yurt and pottery from the time of the Mongol occupation. Call ahead to book an English-language guide as English labelling, while consistent, lacks detail.
