Deep in the old town is the tiny, decrepit Turki Jandi mausoleum, favoured for getting one’s prayers answered. Its importance is signalled by the hundreds of other graves around it – allegedly in stacks 30m deep! Turki Jandi’s tomb is accessed through the mosque under the taller, second cupola. A well inside the mosque contains holy water that locals drink from a cooler near the complex entrance. Have the chatty mullah show you the sections of original 10th-century Arabic script on the mosque’s doors, allegedly inscribed by Turki Jandi himself.
