Thirty-five kilometres west of Jyväskylä, pause at Petäjävesi to see the wonderfully gnarled Unesco-listed wooden church. Finished in 1765, it’s a marvellous example of 18th-century rustic Finnish architecture with crooked wooden pews, a pulpit held up by a rosy-cheeked St Christopher, and a fairy-tale shingle roof. Burials took place under the floorboards, and there’s also a spooky wine cellar under the nave – ask the guide to show you.
