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Abbaye de Fontevraud

TIME : 2016/2/18 17:47:54

Until its closure in 1793 this huge 12th-century complex was one of the largest ecclesiastical centres in Europe. The extensive grounds include a chapter room with murals of the Passion of Christ by Thomas Pot. And keep a look out for the multi-chimneyed, rocket-shaped kitchen , built entirely from stone to make it fireproof.

But the highlight is undoubtedly the massive, movingly simple abbey church , notable for its soaring pillars, Romanesque domes and the polychrome tombs of four illustrious Plantagenets.

They are: Henry II, King of England (r 1154–89); his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine (who retired to Fontevraud following Henry’s death); their son Richard the Lionheart; and his brother King John’s wife, Isabelle of Angoulème.

Unusually, both nuns and monks at the abbey were governed by an abbess (generally a lady of noble birth retiring from public life). The abbey’s cloister is surrounded by dormitories, workrooms and prayer halls, as well as a spooky underground sewer system and a wonderful barrel-vaulted refectory , where the monks and nuns would eat in silence while being read the scriptures.

After the Revolution, the buildings became a prison, in use until 1963. Author Jean Gênet was imprisoned here for stealing, and later wrote Miracle de la Rose (1946) based on his experiences.

Agglobus line 1 from Saumur comes to Fontevraud.