Flanked by mountains and wildflower meadows, the colossal 3rd-century-BC Theatre of Dodoni, 21km southwest of Ioannina, is Epiros’ most imagination-firing ancient site. The north-side acropolis has wall remnants. East of the theatre are bouleuterion (council house) foundations and the small Temple of Aphrodite . Nearby, Zeus' sanctuary once stood. Dodoni is 30 minutes' drive from central Ioannina. Buses from Ioannina serve Dodoni twice daily. Taxis cost about €35 return. Dodoni was undergoing restoration on our visit, but remained open to visitors.
From around 2000 BC, the earth goddess worshipped here spoke through Greece's oldest oracle. Around 400 BC a temple to Zeus was built here, too, and oracles interpreted his messages through the rustling of an ancient oak tree's leaves and the movements of birds nesting in its branches.
