From Hősök tere, a short distance southwest of Szent László tér, enter any of the small streets running southward to dicover Hadas district, a completely different world of thatched and whitewashed cottages. Interesting lanes to stroll along are Patkó köz, Kökény köz and Mogyoró köz, but the centre of activity is Kisjankó Bori utca, the street named after Hungary's own 'Grandma Moses', who lived and stitched her famous rose patterns here for almost 80 years. The family's 200-year-old cottage is now the Bori Kisjankó Memorial House , filled with needlework and brightly painted furniture. 'Aunt Bori' and her apprentices eschewed symmetry and improvised on tradition, stitching intensely bright flowers flowing across dark backgrounds. She is credited with creating 100 rose embroidery patterns.
You can see occasional embroidery demonstrations and dance performances at the House of Folk Art & Dance . Check out traditional Matyó wood-painting techniques at Szabolcs Kovács Furniture Folk Artist . Several other artists have their studios on this street – making intricately decorated honey cakes at No 6, embroidering (No 8), throwing pots (No 38) – or on Mogyoró köz (eg toys at No 4), where you can also buy the crafts. Studios are generally open the same hours as Aunt Bori's house.
The best time to visit is during a festival, such as Easter, when you can see some townsfolk in full traditional regalia. Check the Mezőkövesd website for programme schedules.
