Hunkering modestly behind skimpy T-shirt kiosks is this soaring Renaissance brick church, built by Scarpagnino after a disastrous fire in 1514 destroyed much of the Rialto area. Cross the darkened threshhold to witness flashes of Renaissance genius: Titian's tender St John the Almsgiver (freshly restored and returned from the Accademia) and gloriously restored dome frescoes of frolicking angels by Pordenone.
