The last vestiges of the first post-Inquisition Jewish presence in Portugal are found at the extraordinary Jewish cemetery, which has 76 beautiful marble gravestones. The small site also has a tiny museum and recreated synagogue (complete with a reconstructed wedding). Knowledgable caretaker António starts you off with a long-winded DVD, then gives a detailed, interesting tour. You'll find it tucked behind the football stadium – look for the cypresses – a kilometre from the centre; you can get close on local bus 3.
