Close to the singularly unattractive rail junction of Venta de Baños lies Spain’s oldest church, the 7th-century Basílica de San Juan in Baños de Cerrato. Built by the Visigoths in 661 and modified many times since, its stone-and-terracotta facade exudes a pleasing, austere simplicity and features a 14th-century alabaster statue of St John the Baptist.
