There are few better ways to spend an afternoon than strolling along the Zayandeh River, crossing back and forth on the historic bridges. Such a stroll is especially pleasant at sunset and in the early evening when most of the bridges are illuminated. In total, 11 bridges (six are new) cross the Zayandeh. All but one of the historic Safavid-era crossings lie to the east of Chahar Bagh St – the exception is the shorter Pol-e Marnan (Marnan Bridge) – but most people satisfy themselves with the walk from Pol-e Si-o-Seh (Si-o-Seh Bridge) to Pol-e Khaju (Khaju Bridge), and back.
Traditionally, Esfahanis paused their perambulations to drink tea and enjoy a qalyan at one of the atmospheric teahouses on the Khaju, Chubi and Si-o-Seh bridges. Unfortunately, most of these have been closed in recent years, and only the Pol-e teahouse at the northern end of Pol-e Si-o-Seh remains open.
Various reasons have been offered for these closures. Some locals say that authorities have closed the teahouses due to heritage concerns (with fears being held that the large gas canisters used for heating water could explode and damage the bridges). Others are convinced the rise of religious conservatives in the provincial government is to blame and that the teahouses were closed because they were popular spots for young men and women to socialise.
