This beautifully proportioned, blue-domed mausoleum commemorates an apostle of the prophet Mohammad. Coming to pay respects here was said to have been Imam Reza’s ‘main consolation’ in coming all the way out to Khorasan. The tower took its present form after a 1612 rebuild, which added a band of interior Kufic inscriptions by master-calligrapher Ali Reza Abbasi. The jolly floral motifs around it date from a Qajar redecoration. Surrounding the mausoleum is a large cemetery paved with thousands of tombstones. Burial here currently costs from US$800. That gets you stacked four bodies deep for 30 years before you’re dug up again; pay four times that amount per body if you want a ‘family room’ within surrounding arched colonnades. That’s still only half what you’d pay to deposit a corpse beneath the Haram. Get here on bus 34 from Tabarsi Blvd or 38 from Kuh-e Sangi.
