Unseen behind the high walls within the Old City are hundreds of delightful houses built around courtyards and featuring their own elaborate decoration. Unfortunately, many of these treasures are in a sad state of disrepair, but a loop off Straight St takes in several examples, all of which have benefited from renovation.
From Dahdah Palace, go west to Sharia al-Amin, turn right then left onto Straight St, then turn right for Maktab Anbar. Built in 1867 by a Jewish trader who, legend has it, travelled to India and returned with a hat full of diamonds, the extravagant palace was seized in 1890 when he couldn't pay his taxes, and was turned into a women's boarding school. These days it houses the architects responsible for the preservation and renovation of the Old City. There are three splendid courtyards featuring exquisite decoration and lush gardens.
