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Estructura I
Walking south from Estructura III you come to Estructura I, Calakmul’s second great pyramid, which is nearly as big as Estructura II. (American botanist Cyrus Lundell named the site Calakmul, Maya for ‘two adjacent mounds,’ in reference to the pair of then-unexcavated pyramids that
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Tzaráracua Waterfall
Ten kilometers south of downtown Uruapan, the wild Rio Cupatitzio makes its last act count. It pumps hard over the vine-covered, 30m-high red rock cliffs and crashes into a misty turquoise pool. This is the Tzaráracua waterfall . On the meandering hike down the 557 slippery steps t
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Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios
The Pirámide Tepanapa is topped by the brightly decorated Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. Its a classic symbol of conquest, but possibly an inadvertent one, as the church may have been built before the Spanish realized the mound contained a pagan temple. You can climb
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Sierra de San Francisco
Sierra de San Francisco is the gateway to some spectacular pre-Hispanic rock art and as such has been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. At Cueva Pintada, Cochimí painters and their predecessors decorated high rock overhangs with vivid red and black representations of human fig
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Templo de la Concepción
A splendid church with a fine altar and several magnificent old oil paintings. Painted on the interior doorway are a number of wise sayings to give pause to those entering the sanctuary. The church was begun in the mid-18th century; its dome, added in the late 19th century by the v
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Museo de la Guerra de Castas
Housed in an 18th-century building, this museum does a good job of detailing the more than four centuries of oppression suffered by the Maya on the peninsula, with its main focus on the Caste War. Only a few explanations are translated into English. There’s a small botanical garden
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Plaza Menor
Beyond the Plaza del Arroyo in the south of the site flanked by pyramids on four sides, is the Plaza Menor (Lesser Plaza), part of El Tajín’s main ceremonial center and possible marketplace, with a low platform in the middle. All of the structures around this plaza were probably to
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Biological Research Station
North of the junction to Jicacal, you’ll soon hit the Biological Research Station and will see a handful of camping opportunities, including at Laguna Escondida and Finca Villa Carino. The ornery biologists have a tiny biology museum and limited patience for tourists. They cobbled
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Bahía Puerto Angelito
The sheltered bay of Puerto Angelito has two smallish beaches with shallow, usually calm waters: the western Playa Angelito and the eastern Playa Manzanillo. Both have lots of seafood comedores (simple restaurants) and are very popular with Mexican families at weekends and on holid
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Bahía Principal
Puerto Escondidos central bay is long enough to accommodate restaurants at its west end, a fleet of fishing boats in its center (Playa Principal), and sun worshippers and young bodyboarders at its east end (Playa Marinero), where the waters are a little cleaner. Pelicans wing in in
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Parque Paseo de los Lagos
Xalapans escape the monstrous traffic just south of Parque Juárez in this serendipitous park which has 3km of delightful lakeside paths, most commonly used for jogging (and making out). At its northern end is the Centro Cultural Los Lagos , a lovely cultural center; check out the b
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Akab
East of the Nunnery, the Puuc-style Akab-Dzib is thought by some archaeologists to be the most ancient structure excavated here. The central chambers date from the 2nd century. The name means ‘Obscure Writing’ in Maya and refers to the south-side annex door, whose lintel depicts a
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Museo de los Altos de Chiapas
One of two museums inside the Ex-Convento de Santo Domingo, which is located on the western side of the Templo de Santo Domingo, this museum has several impressive archaeological relics – including stelae from Chincultik – as well as exhibits on the Spanish conquest and evangelizat
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Museo de la Ciudad de México
Formerly a palace of the Counts of Santiago de Calimaya, this 18th-century baroque edifice now houses a museum with exhibits focusing on city history and culture. Upstairs is the former studio of Joaquín Clausell, considered Mexico’s foremost impressionist. The artist used the wall
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Museo de la Ciudad de Cholula
This excellent museum is housed in a fantastically restored colonial building on the zócalo . The small but strong collection includes ceramics and jewelry from the Pirámide Tepanapa, as well as later colonial paintings and sculptures. Most interestingly, you can watch through a gl
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San Gervasio Ruins
This overpriced Maya complex is Cozumel’s only preserved ruin. San Gervasio is thought to have been the location of the sanctuary of Ixchel, goddess of fertility, and thus an important pilgrimage site at which Maya women – in particular prospective mothers – worshipped. But its str
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Río Bec
Río Bec is the designation for a collection of small sites, 70 at last count, in a 100-sq-km area southeast of Xpujil. The remoteness of the site and ongoing excavations give it a certain buzz and mystique that’s lacking in established sites. Couple this with the fact that it’s nea
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Mayan Temple
Dedicated chiefly to Ixchel, Maya goddess of the moon and fertility, this temple was discovered by Francisco Hernández de Córdobas expedition in 1517. The conquistadors found various clay female figures here; whether they were all likenesses of Ixchel or instead represented several
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Museo de El Carmen
A storehouse of magnificent sacred art in a former school run by the Carmelite order. The collection includes oils by Mexican master Cristóbal de Villalpando, though the big draw is the collection of mummies in the crypt. Thought to be the bodies of 17th-century benefactors of the
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Playa El Borrego
The beach closest to the town is Playa El Borrego, at the end of Azueta – look for the jet aircraft. Its a long sweep of grey sand with decent waves backed by a string of casual bar-restaurants. Swimming can be treacherous – beware of rip currents – but there are flags and a lifegu
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