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San Ignacio Miní

TIME : 2016/2/19 14:14:26

These mission ruins are the most complete of those in Argentina and impress for the quantity of carved ornamentation still visible and for the amount of restoration done. No roofs remain, but many of the living quarters and workshops have been reerected.

First founded in 1610 in Brazil, but abandoned after repeated attacks by slavers, San Ignacio was established at its present site in 1696 and functioned until the Jesuits finally gave in to the order of expulsion in 1768. The ruins, rediscovered in 1897 and restored between 1940 and 1948, are a great example of 'Guaraní baroque.' At its peak, the reducción had a Guaraní population of nearly 4000.

At the ruins (take an informative free tour if you wish; guides speak English, some speak French and German), you pass between rows of Guaraní houses before arriving at the plaza, on one side of which is the enormous red sandstone church. Impressive in its dimensions, it is the focal point of the settlement. While the red-brown stone is very picturesque, the buildings were originally white. Before lime was widely available, it was obtained by burning snail shells.

By the church, the cloisters preserve some ornately carved balustrades, and the original flooring of some of the rooms off it. Just before the exit is another museum containing some excellent carved paving stones.

In summer it's worth trying to avoid visiting between 10:00 and 13:00, as the site gets particularly busy with tour groups at these times. The admission ticket is valid for 15 days, and includes entry to the nearby ruins at Santa Ana and Loreto, and also to Santa María la Mayor, a little further afield.