I was leaving Kanazawa today, but had some time in the morning and wanted to use it to the fullest. I skipped breakfast at the Kashimaya Ryokan, checking out at eating at a café instead. I must admit that Japanese breakfasts are nice once in a while, but I can’t face pickles and fish first thing in the morning too many days in a row. Coffee and pastry were just what I needed.
Breakfast in Kanazawa (photo:Hideya HAMANO/flickr)
It was not a long walk to the Ishikawa Kanko Bussankan, or Local Products Shop. It may sound silly to have a souvenir store on my itinerary, but I have founds that the kanko bussankan run by the prefectures often have wonderful displays of regional wares. This was no exception, and I enjoyed browsing through the selection of beautiful handmade goods. There were dolls and exquisite gold leaf items and beautiful yuzen dyed silk objects.
Ishikawa Kanko Bussankan- Local Products Shop
I enjoyed a few free samples of the sweets on display and got a package of lovely candies to give to my mother along with one of the ones I had made yesterday. Quite a contrast in skill level, but she would appreciate the thought. I considered one of the bottles of sake for my father, but decided it might break in my luggage. I would not consider the store a final destination, but it was a good place to stop on the way.
Ishikawa Kanko Bussankan- gift displays
My real destination was the Kaga Yuzen Traditional Industries Center. Yuzen is a special type of silk dying, and I had seen kimono made that way. They were multi-colored and extremely elaborate, and I found out at the museum, are each unique. Since they are all painted by hand, there will be natural variations even if an artist is following the same pattern. The Kaga Yuzen Traditional Industries Center was smaller than I expected, but was a little gem of a museum. There were lovely kimono on display, but most interesting was a craftsman demonstrating how the dyeing was done.
Kaga Yuzen Traditional Industries Center displays
I wanted to try my hand at it, but did not have time for a class. However, I did splurge on trying on a kimono and having my photo taken. I felt like a little girl looking at all the pretty options, and the kindly lady in the dressing room with me gave me some less-than-subtle suggestions about which would look best for my coloring and age. She had a few words of English, and with my basic Japanese, we got by as she wrapped the different layers of kimono and obi belt around me.
Kaga Yuzen Kimono Colours
She explained that it was not a real kimono because it was in two parts, an upper section and a lower section. This was to facilitate the dressing process. However, she was very adamant about explaining that it was indeed real yuzen silk painted by a true craftsman. The fabric was luxurious under my fingertips, and I stared at myself in the mirror from many angles. The lady took one photo with their official camera, but then offered to use mine, and I ended up with several nice shots. I felt a bit silly, but was amazed how the kimono changed my appearance. I was transformed into an elegant lady for a short time.
Kaga Yuzen Kimono
My real clothes were so much more comfortable that it was a relief to change back after the photo session. I ran my hand over the luxurious fabric one more time as the woman carefully started to put away the pieces. I thanked her and headed to the souvenir corner.
Kaga Yuzen Cute Purses
Rather than souvenir corner, “display of gorgeous handmade items for sale” might be a better description. Unfortunately, most did not fit my budget, but I loved looking at everything. I picked up several because I liked the feel of the silk. Eventually I settled on one small purse, paid for it, and headed back outside.
Kanazawa Teahouse (photo by Suri @ https://www.flickr.com/photos/suri0832)
It was time to continue my journey, so I walked back to Kanazawa Station without further delay. I was heading to Tokyo, and the bustling, modern, international city could not have felt more different. For someone who loves the trappings of feudal Japan, Kanazawa in Ishikawa Prefecture was the place to visit. From the architecture to the culture to the delicious foods, it satisfied my image of Japanese history.
