The desert playground of Shāpōtóu, 17km west of Zhōngwèi, lies on the fringes of the Tengger Desert at the dramatic convergence of sand dunes, the Yellow River and lush farmlands. It’s based around the Shāpōtóu Desert Research Centre, which was founded in 1956 to battle the ever-worsening problem of desertification in China’s northwest.
These days, though, Shāpōtóu is almost an amusement park. You can zipline (¥80) or hang-glide (¥100) on a wire across the Yellow River or go sand-sledding (¥30) or bungee jumping (¥160).
It’s also a good place to raft the churning Yellow River. The traditional mode of transport on the river for centuries was the yángpí fázi (leather raft), made from sheep or cattle skins soaked in oil and brine and then inflated. From Shāpōtóu you can roar upstream on a speedboat and return on a traditional raft. Prices range from ¥80 to ¥240, depending on how far you go. You can also combine the boat/raft ride with a camel ride (¥110).
Shāpō Shānzhuāng is a basic but comfortable hotel near the dunes. Meals are available.
Buses (¥5, 45 minutes) run between Zhōngwèi and Shāpōtóu from 7.30am to 6.30pm. You can pick them up on Changcheng Xijie about 200m past the Gāo Temple on the opposite side of the road. Taxis cost ¥30 each way.
