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Haesindang Park

TIME : 2016/2/17 16:15:29

Of all the things you’d expect to find in a fishing village like Sinnam (신남), a ‘penis park’ is probably not one of them. There are more than 50 phallic sculptures, some taking the form of park benches or drums. These carvings were entered for a contest in Samcheok’s now-defunct Penis Sculpture Festival; today they attract joshing ajumma and ajeossi (married or older women and men). It's a cheeky, eye-opening 20 to 30 minute walk if you don't stop, but you will stop.

The phallic obsession originates with a local legend about a drowned virgin whose restless spirit was affecting the village’s catch. A fisherman discovered that she could be appeased if he answered the call of nature while facing the ocean, so the village put up phalluses to placate her. A small shrine to this spirit stands at the seaward tip of the park and binoculars look out to the statue commemorating where she drowned.

There’s an elaborate series of penis sculptures representing the 12 animals of the Chinese zodiac and outside the park stands a red lighthouse with the same, uh, peculiarities. The park has impressive sea views and also contains the Fishing Village Folk Museum (어촌 민속 전시관; closed Monday), focusing on the history of fishing and shamanist rituals in the region, and sexual iconography in other cultures.

From Samcheok’s intercity bus terminal, take bus 24 (₩1800, 40 minutes, 20km, hourly) from the platform on the right. You can enter Haesindang Park from the top of the headland (where there’s a huge parking lot) or from the entrance in Sinnam. The easier walk is to start at the top, work your way down and exit at the village.