This large fortress is 4km northeast of Cheongju, on the slopes of the mountain Uam-san. Originally built in the 1590s and renovated in the 18th century, it has walls that stretch 4.2km around wooded hillsides, offering great views of farms, mountains and the city. Its size makes it easy to imagine that it once housed three temples and several thousand soldiers and monks. Today, Korean families decamp to the fields outside the south gate for family picnics.
A hike around the top of the wall takes about 1½ hours. The route is completely exposed and can be steep-going. The easier direction is counter-clockwise. From where the bus drops you, walk back along the road and look on the left for a paved path that ascends to the top of the wall. Along the walk, there are hardly any signs or resting places, and no food stalls, vending machines or toilets – so bring your own water and a hat. If you’re up for a challenge, follow the path beside the pond and up the steep hill on the right to do a clockwise circuit. There are restaurants and shops near the bus stop.
Bus 862 (₩1150, 30 minutes, hourly) goes from Cheongju Stadium bus stop and up to the fortress. To get to the stadium, hop on any bus heading downtown to Sajing-no (사직로) from outside the intercity bus terminal. The stadium bus stop is just after a five-storey golden pavilion . A taxi from the bus terminal should cost ₩15,000. The last bus back to town leaves at 9.50pm.
