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Balık Pazarı

TIME : 2016/2/19 2:42:44

Opposite the grandiose entrance to the 1868 Galatasaray Lycée, one of the city's most prestigious educational institutions, is this much-loved historic produce market. At its entrance are stands selling midye tava (skewered mussels fried in hot oil), kokoreç (seasoned lamb or mutton intestines wrapped around a skewer and grilled over charcoal) and other snacks. Further inside are shops selling fish, caviar, fruit, vegetables and other produce; most of these are in Duduodaları Sokak on the left (southern) side of the market.

Many of the shops have been here for close on a century and have extremely loyal clienteles – check out Sütte Şarküteri for its delicious charcuterie, kaymak (clotted cream) and take-away sandwiches; Tarihi Beyoğlu Ekmek Fırını for fresh bread; Üç Yıldız Şekerleme for jams, lokum (Turkish delight) and sweets; Petek Turşuları for pickles; and Reşat Balık Market for caviar and the city's best lakerda (strongly flavored salted bonito).

At 24a, look for the gigantic black doors to the courtyard of the Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi , which dates from 1838. Visitors can enter the church providing the doors are open. On the opposite side of the street is the neoclassical Avrupa Pasajı , an attractive arcade full of shops that once sold antiques but now seem to stock little except tourist tat.