Give yourself an hour to explore the narrow lanes zigzagging alongside lava rock walls, traditional homes with thatched roofs, more than a few hareubang (old grandfather) statues and the occasional baby black pig. If the gate poles are down, you're welcome to enter. Modern intrusions into the village include souvenir shops, restaurants and car parks, but most of it still looks fantastically feudal. Look out for the Confucian school and the 1000-year-old zelkova tree.
The village is surrounded by a fortress wall punctuated by ornate entrance gates; Nammun (south gate) is the main gate.
